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    Cleaning muzzle brakes...

    Just found out a great solution (literally) for cleaning muzzle brakes. My rifles returned from South Dakota almost two weeks after I did and after all that time, the carbon that was caked on my muzzle brakes was pretty much set on staying there. I tried soaking in several carbon solvents, scrubbing with brushes, scraping with a pick and if you've ever done this, you know what a PITA it is to get that stuff out between the baffles. Not fun, not easy and not coming off.

    That is until I spoke to the guys at Area419. The solution? A 1:1 mixture of hydrogen peroxide and white vinegar. Now being cautious about mixing household chemicals, I googled this and found that this is almost as dangerous as playing with uranium, but I figured I'd try it anyway. The resulting compound is peracetic acid and can be dangerous, but not the explosive kind of dangerous. It is corrosive so you don't want to dispose of it down your pipes and you should wear gloves and eye protection when handling it and use only glass containers to mix it.

    Basically, you mix a 1:1 mixture of hydrogen peroxide and white vinegar in a jar. Place the muzzle brake in there and come back two hours later. Rinse thoroughly with water and then treat with your favorite gun oil product. It literally melts the carbon off and does no harm to the muzzle brake at all. It just fizzes like alka seltzer.

    #2
    No worries about it eating into the metal?

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      #3
      Originally posted by E View Post
      No worries about it eating into the metal?
      Nope. I inspected very carefully afterwards looking for any signs of pitting. Nothing. It's crazy how well this stuff works.

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        #4
        I read somewhere that it will remove blueing.
        NRA Life member

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          #5
          Originally posted by Sig View Post
          I read somewhere that it will remove blueing.
          I could see that. I don’t think I’d use anything this harsh on anything that was blued. My muzzle brakes are black nitride and stainless steel.

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            #6
            This is nasty stuff, and it's not just the eyes, the fumes are dangerous: "industrial hygienists recognize that it is also highly corrosive and a strong oxidizer, and exposure to peracetic acid can severely irritate the eyes, skin, and respiratory system. Symptoms of acute exposure may include cough, labored breathing, and shortness of breath; skin redness, pain, and blisters; and “severe deep burns” in the eyes". I'm not saying anything negative about it's effectiveness, just saying please use caution, well ventilated area, etc.

            Read this so you know what you're dealing with: http://synergist.aiha.org/201612-per...es-and-hazards

            And for anyone who wants to go into Walter White mode with a chemistry set, please develop "Libtard Repellant" spray. I'll gladly pre-order.
            Last edited by Banzai; 08-02-2018, 12:57 PM.

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              #7
              I used a mix like that in the 90's, worked well with no problems to the fireaarm, forgot about years ago, will try it again.
              stay alive, carry a 45

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                #8
                Simple Green Pro HD... the purple stuff. If the gun parts are not aluminum you can put it an ultrasonic cleaning unit.
                Exercise the Bill of Rights. It's good for your Constitution.

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                  #9
                  Originally posted by Banzai View Post
                  This is nasty stuff, and it's not just the eyes, the fumes are dangerous: "industrial hygienists recognize that it is also highly corrosive and a strong oxidizer, and exposure to peracetic acid can severely irritate the eyes, skin, and respiratory system. Symptoms of acute exposure may include cough, labored breathing, and shortness of breath; skin redness, pain, and blisters; and “severe deep burns” in the eyes". I'm not saying anything negative about it's effectiveness, just saying please use caution, well ventilated area, etc.

                  Read this so you know what you're dealing with: http://synergist.aiha.org/201612-per...es-and-hazards

                  And for anyone who wants to go into Walter White mode with a chemistry set, please develop "Libtard Repellant" spray. I'll gladly pre-order.
                  I should have mentioned also that I've only used it outdoors. And in very small quantities, i.e. 200 ml. This is not stuff you can be careless with.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by HyFiveGuns View Post

                    I should have mentioned also that I've only used it outdoors. And in very small quantities, i.e. 200 ml. This is not stuff you can be careless with.
                    All good, I was curious if it's corrosive to metals over time and saw that page so figured I'd throw it in there just to give you all a heads up.

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                      #11
                      On my ar15 that i shoot cheap dirty tulammo 223 out of i leave the muzzle brake off for this reason. I always ran a bore snake or cleaning rod when i was done using it. but after 300-400 rounds i removed the brake for some reason and found a ton of caked on crud on the end of the muzzle. I knew that tulammo was dirty but wow how much crud collected. No issue with my wifes AR, but she is not cheap like me when it comes to ammo lol

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                        #12
                        Originally posted by Banzai View Post

                        All good, I was curious if it's corrosive to metals over time and saw that page so figured I'd throw it in there just to give you all a heads up.
                        You are 100% right to post warnings about this stuff. No question, it can be dangerous and needs to be handled with care.

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                          #13
                          Originally posted by Gopedxr7 View Post
                          On my ar15 that i shoot cheap dirty tulammo 223 out of i leave the muzzle brake off for this reason. I always ran a bore snake or cleaning rod when i was done using it. but after 300-400 rounds i removed the brake for some reason and found a ton of caked on crud on the end of the muzzle. I knew that tulammo was dirty but wow how much crud collected. No issue with my wifes AR, but she is not cheap like me when it comes to ammo lol
                          I would not use this on a rifle barrel. I don't think that's what you're saying, but just putting it out there. For this solution to work, the object needs to be submerged for a period of time. When I remove my brakes, there is always baked on carbon on the crown. But that usually comes off fairly easy by rubbing it with some carbon remover on a rag. The muzzle brakes get it caked on real good in between the baffles.

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                            #14
                            Originally posted by HyFiveGuns View Post

                            I would not use this on a rifle barrel. I don't think that's what you're saying, but just putting it out there. For this solution to work, the object needs to be submerged for a period of time. When I remove my brakes, there is always baked on carbon on the crown. But that usually comes off fairly easy by rubbing it with some carbon remover on a rag. The muzzle brakes get it caked on real good in between the baffles.
                            Yeah totally, I was just thinking if someone was as big a lazy ass as me they might just dip the muzzle brake in the solution while it was still on the barrel, and you might inadvertently splash the chrome lining. My bigger issue is I never get off my lazy ass enough to even shoot a rifle and get things dirty enough in the first place, def gotta remedy that!

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