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    Duracoat questions

    Anyone try the aerosol spray paint can version of the duracoat? How did it come out and how did it stand up to abuse? I dont want to go the ceracoat rout because of all the equipment I would need to buy and I dont want to go the cheap spry paint route because I know it def wont last so I figured this is kind of the middle ground and I would ask and see if anyone tried it already and if its worth it.

    #2
    Cue Destro ...
    Steve

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      #3
      I've done a bunch using the preval sprayers before i was set up to spray, those worked fine, only time i used the aerosol can was with the durablu, and it wasn't a gun but it's held up great.

      Eta i always bake, never air dry, so can't speak to that difference.
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      This gallery has 1 photos.

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        #4
        Looks great!! I think Im gonna order it up and post how it comes out.

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          #5
          Funny, I just ordered a kite. Going to try them today. I'll post picture once I finish.

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            #6
            What color did you get?

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              #7
              For anyone looking to do something on a budget and wanting better than a regular spray paint, I have had great success with VHT brake caliper paint. You bake it after you spray it on. It’s chemical and heat resistant and only about $10. I first used it on an old A1 stock set me it has held up well. I have done a bunch of small parts (SKS front sight) and an old pellet gun.

              Attached Files

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                #8
                Originally posted by DOUBBLE TAP View Post
                What color did you get?
                I got the royal brown spray can. Gonna spray my AR. I’ll upload some pics once I’m done. I should be getting the package today.

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                  #9
                  So just did it last night. Came out fantastic considering this is my first time painting anything. I made some mistakes along the way but still came out acceptable to me
                  Attached Files

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                  • DOUBBLE TAP
                    DOUBBLE TAP commented
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                    Looks awesome man

                  #10


                  DOUBBLE TAP

                  The key to Duracoat is

                  - proper solvent prep
                  - curing time


                  I wouldn't use rattle can duracoat, rather recommend Brownells Alumahyde if you want to go rattle can. But I would recommend getting a cheap Harbor Freight Airbrush kit (compressor and hose and airbrush like 60 bucks or less) and shoot Duracoat with that. you can also experiment with the hardener to paint ratio, more hardener a more glossy transparent look will result. Remember, being a two part epoxy it has a pot life and the hardener will be no good in like a month, and the mixed batch within an hour.

                  Solvent prep- degrease all metal with acetone or denatured alchohol, multiple wipe-downs, wear respirator and gloves. If there is any rust hit it with fine bronze wool prior to wiping down with sovlent.

                  Fine mist coats of application.

                  Then let it cure. It can take weeks for a proper cure. Warm air dry is best. You can heat the metal and "paint" with a hair-dryer prior to application as well. If you handle it too soon the epoxy coating will be soft, you can still scrape it off or dent it with a finger nail.

                  Take it slow and easy and it will be fine. Remember the solvents will fry your nervous system/brain so wear proper cartridges.

                  durac1.jpg

                  magpul_saiga_1.jpg

                  duracoat_ref_1.jpg


                  zCrusader_5.jpg
                  Saiga223_5 (2).jpg


                  IMG_0297.JPG
                  tiger_2.jpg

                  image_62714.jpg


                  mossy500OD4.jpg

                  Colt__up14.jpg
                  Last edited by Destro; 11-21-2020, 03:12 PM.

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                  • Destro
                    Destro commented
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                    Thanks, good to see you on here again. Ah, the good old days. builds and guns, and bourbon.

                  • Volkosupply
                    Volkosupply commented
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                    it's lame I can't like a comment.

                  • Destro
                    Destro commented
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                    Like

                  #11
                  Yeah, I used the rattle can because it was easy to start. The next one will be from a air bush spray. It's just such fun to color your own guns. Please share experience so we can all learn together.

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                    #12
                    Originally posted by weinyce View Post
                    Yeah, I used the rattle can because it was easy to start. The next one will be from a air bush spray. It's just such fun to color your own guns. Please share experience so we can all learn together.
                    One of the nicer things about the regular 2 part epoxy Duracoat is that you can 1. mix colors for custom blends (the above OD and Stainless resulted in the goldish OD on the Saiga below, the .223 on the bottom),
                    image_60713.jpg

                    S223.jpg

                    You can see it looks almost metallic in some lighting (higher levels of hardener mixed in, I cover that in the second point below), but in the picture below compared to brass you can see it's OD hue.

                    dur1.jpg

                    dur2.jpg

                    and

                    2. you can mix higher levels of hardener for a thicker more translucent, almost glossy application. So it gives more control.


                    I've used Brownells Alumahyde rattle-cans with good results so I have no doubt with proper prep you can get good results for a single color with the Duracoat rattlecan, but really at the price-point, I'd learn to mix and shoot it with an airbrush or HVLP for optimal control and results.


                    Another nice thing about Duracoat is that you can chemically strip it (and in theory it would preserve the bluing, so a newly painted gun stripped, and solvent-bathed will look brand new again). I've redone Duracoat jobs on a single gun a couple of times. I've also purchased bad DIY duracoat jobs for a discount and refinished them good as new. See below...

                    duracoat_ref_2.jpg
                    duracoat_ref_3.jpg
                    Here is the tutorial on stripping Duracoat.

                    https://www.longislandgunclub.com/fo...shing-tutorial

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                      #13
                      I’ve done a bunch. Works well but has a lot of waste if you don’t have multiple things to spray at the same time.

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                        #14
                        also M E K will rot your brains real quick , so use a proper mask and do it outdoors

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                          #15
                          Originally posted by M-14BULLETTS View Post
                          also M E K will rot your brains real quick , so use a proper mask and do it outdoors
                          Yep in that tutorial I point out that I always prefer to use Jasco epoxy remover, and save MEK for the most stubborn jobs as it is one of the most toxic solvents in my shop. I also advise a full face respirator with properly rated cartridges and a good seal (shaved face) and proper ventilation.

                          I hardly ever use it, and prefer not to, as most epoxies including Duracoat come off like butter with other epoxy removers (like Jasco).

                          duracoat_ref_4.jpg

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