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Firing pin for a S&W 686

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    Firing pin for a S&W 686

    I'm looking to put an extended firing pin in my 686. After researching APEX seems the way to go. Can anybody confirm or point me in another direction?

    thanks.

    #2
    I’ve always been happy Apex triggers. Never used their products in a wheel gun though so I guess I’m not much help.

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      #3
      I don't who makes extended firing pins for revolver, but may I ask why they are necessary?
      "The Open Carry guy is my decoy."

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        #4
        I've been having issues with light strikes. If I set the strain screw all the way in I can't get the grips on due to the adjusted location of the main spring. Guys over on the S&W forum seem to think a longer firing pin would do the trick.

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          #5
          Light strikes could be ammo, primers or a worn/weak spring. Have you tried different ammo? Do you reload, trying different primers?

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            #6
            Originally posted by Localx View Post
            I've been having issues with light strikes. If I set the strain screw all the way in I can't get the grips on due to the adjusted location of the main spring. .
            Item 1. Set the strain screw all the way in, always. You can bend the main spring to make adjustments. (not the common way for most people, but used by certain people. I started doing it years ago on my match gun) The strain screw were never really meant to be turn adjusted. The factory adjusted them by grinding the length (in the old days)

            Item 2. You mean the cross grip screw? Are these Pachmyer grips? Even if you're getting the screw in my backing out the strain screw, when you pull the trigger the spring will hit the screw and change what's going on.

            Years ago a spent many many hours/days doing an acton job on a 629, it was wonderful . When I put the grips back on the double action pull felt heavy again. It drove me nuts for a while until I realized what was going on, the main spring was using the cross screw as a fulcrum, making it feel like a much shorter, heavier spring. I actually used some silicone sealant to hold the grips on (Pachmyer compacs) and have been using the gun that way for 25+ years, with no grip screw.


            Since you have nothing to lose but the cost of a spring, I would suggest getting a pair or two pliers and try changing the shape of the spring ever so slightly. (you want the screw in from of the spring, not behind it)


            Yes Apex is probably your best source for an extended pin (Cylinder and Slide may make them too). But if down the road you or someone else should change the grips and put the strain screw back where it should be, they could possibly end up with pierced primers)
            Last edited by cas; 11-29-2019, 07:49 AM.
            John Valuk is dead. He fell on his head.

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              #7
              On a different not, is it a 686 no dash? There was a recall on nose bushings due to it creeping out. This was 30 plus years ago. I know because I have 3.
              Attached Files
              NRA Benefactor Member

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                #8
                I figure a pic would help. As you can see the main spring is pressing on the raised plastic not allowing me to tighten down the strain screw. What if I took a dremel to it and shaved off the plastic where they make contact?
                Attached Files

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                  #9
                  So you're thinking about changing the firing pin or bending the main spring due to plastic reinforcing the grip screw hole in your aftermarket grips? Which grips are they? If you use the stock grips or other aftermarket grips, does this still happen?
                  My wood grips don't have that extra around the hole, so I'm not too sure it's needed on the plastic ones unless you're unreasonably harsh with your revolver.
                  "The Open Carry guy is my decoy."

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                    #10
                    Hey Dan,

                    The grips are stock that came with the gun. I have about 500 rounds through it. That plastic reinforcing grip screw looks to me like I could shave off an area where the main spring touches it. That would allow me to bottom out the strain screw and hit it with some Blue Loctite to hold it in place.

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                      #11
                      That large center "circle" is raised? I would assume it's for reenforcement and to keep you from over tightening the screw, pulling the grip screw through or cracking it. (which is pretty common with some guns) If you leave the rear portion of it there I wouldn't see it being a problem , (that's what I'd do)
                      John Valuk is dead. He fell on his head.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by Localx View Post
                        Hey Dan,

                        The grips are stock that came with the gun. I have about 500 rounds through it. That plastic reinforcing grip screw looks to me like I could shave off an area where the main spring touches it. That would allow me to bottom out the strain screw and hit it with some Blue Loctite to hold it in place.
                        Stock? Very interesting you're having this problem with factory parts.
                        I will follow this thread.
                        "The Open Carry guy is my decoy."

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