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Nail or screw subfloor

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    #16
    Screw and PL

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      #17
      Make sure the screw heads are flush or below

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        #18
        Originally posted by Basballny2 View Post
        The regular construction screws from Home Depot do the trick?
        I don't know what a "construction" screw is. Drywall screws are not a good idea. While they're made to screw into wood, the heads are made to work in drywall, and they're very brittle.

        I'd suggest deck screws. Those are actually made to screw wood to wood, and will allow you to sink the heads flush without snapping.

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          #19
          Looks like screws it is, these fine?

          https://www.homedepot.com/p/Grip-Rit...10BK/207200509

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            #20
            Originally posted by Sig View Post

            There is no field on subfloors. Subfloors go directly over the joists. Underlayment goes over the subfloor. Construction adhesive and ring nails should be fine. The joists have already shrunk from age and should hold nails no problem. Screwing it down wouldn't hurt. I'd use Spax or GRK screws. Drywall screws have a tendency for the heads to snap off at the wrong time. When that happens you've created a gap between the joist and subfloor that's a bitch to pull tight.
            I use a zinc screw with a self tapping thread and head. Sheet rock screws break.
            Giza Development: Building and Renovating Pyramids of Distinction Since 2435 BC 631-427-1691 (Beware the Sea People)

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              #21
              Originally posted by Basballny2 View Post
              Looks like screws it is, these fine?

              https://www.homedepot.com/p/Grip-Rit...10BK/207200509
              Why 2 1/2"'s? Why not 2" or 1 5/8"?
              Giza Development: Building and Renovating Pyramids of Distinction Since 2435 BC 631-427-1691 (Beware the Sea People)

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                #22
                Originally posted by Basballny2 View Post
                Looks like screws it is, these fine?

                https://www.homedepot.com/p/Grip-Rit...10BK/207200509
                Yes. I've always seen that style called cabinet screws, but construction screws it is today.
                If the joists are sound, then those may be on the long side though, and you can save time and work with something shorter (as spider suggested).
                The longer length of desk screws is to make up for the thickness of the decking.

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                  #23
                  Originally posted by Basballny2 View Post
                  Looks like screws it is, these fine?

                  https://www.homedepot.com/p/Grip-Rit...10BK/207200509
                  PS The Torx head sucks. I'm going back to Philips head. Even Robertson head square drives are better. There's a crappy purchase between the bit and the screw. You have to have fifty different Torx bits 'cause there's T30, T27, T25, T20, T15, etc and they all look similar. They divide the bits out by color code. None of the screws are colored to match. So you get up on the staging with three guys ready to work, there are three screw guns, ten bits and you aren't going to screw anything except the pooch.
                  Last edited by spider; 03-27-2020, 12:07 AM.
                  Giza Development: Building and Renovating Pyramids of Distinction Since 2435 BC 631-427-1691 (Beware the Sea People)

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                    #24
                    as I have said before in other threads it isn't necessarily what you do but how you do it .

                    No application is " fool proof " to a talented fool

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                      #25
                      Originally posted by spider View Post

                      PS The Torx head sucks. I'm going back to Philips head. Even Robertson head square drives are better. There's a crappy purchase between the bit and the screw. You have to have fifty different Torx bits 'cause there's T30, T27, T25, T20, T15, etc and they all look similar. They divide the bits out by color code. Non of the screws are colored to match. So you get up on the staging with three guys ready to work, there are three screw guns, ten bits and you aren't going to screw anything except the pooch.
                      To each their own but I love torx heads. Probably have all those sizes in my pocket right now.
                      NRA Life member

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                        #26
                        Originally posted by spider View Post

                        PS The Torx headd sucks. I'm going back to Philips head. Even Robertson head square drives are better. There's a crappy purchase between the bit and the screw. You have to have fifty different Torx bits 'cause there's T30, T27, T25, T20, T15, etc and they all look similar. They divide the bits out by color code. Non of the screws are colored to match. So you get up on the staging with three guys ready to work, there are three screw guns, ten bits and non of them are the right thing.
                        I'm on the fence on this one. I agree with all of your comments, but there's more to it. Torx is MUCH more resistant to camming out than phillips and even robertson. I absolutely will not use anything other than torx with stainless screws, because nothing else works well in those very soft heads.

                        As for phillips, it IS very nice that a wide range of screws uses the same size bit. The fact that many "phillips" bits are now being made to DIN 5260 standards which differs from phillips original standards in the way it engages has helped a lot in recent years (in particular, with P2; I haven't had issues with P3). And impact drivers have also helped a lot at preventing camouts, at the expense of my ears.

                        If you're still driving screws with a drill, then by all means switch to torx. If you have a good impact driver, then consider sticking with phillips for screws with hardened steel heads.

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                          #27
                          Coarse Sheet rock screws are fine (NOT FINE SCREWS)...yes run a thin bead of PL ON EACH JOIST If your worried about squeaking..Lay it out snapping lines and using PLENTY of screws alone will also be fine also 12" apart ...Ring nails are also fine and faster with nail gun along with PL ON JOISTS.. take your pick..Keep it simple ..thats all your choices

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                            #28
                            Originally posted by Huntington Guy View Post
                            Nail it, then screw it, then have a bowl of cereal, then take a shower.
                            or a Slice of cold pizza.
                            LI Ammo, 2 Larkfield Rd. East Northport, (closed Sundays during Covid Apocalypse)

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                              #29
                              Originally posted by spider View Post

                              PS The Torx head sucks. I'm going back to Philips head. Even Robertson head square drives are better. There's a crappy purchase between the bit and the screw. You have to have fifty different Torx bits 'cause there's T30, T27, T25, T20, T15, etc and they all look similar. They divide the bits out by color code. None of the screws are colored to match. So you get up on the staging with three guys ready to work, there are three screw guns, ten bits and you aren't going to screw anything except the pooch.
                              Torx or square drive. Yes, there are different sizes, many close to one another but you have to ensure you have the correct ones for the screws you are using, or, as said- The dog gets a red ass
                              Take a young person shooting.... Take 2 or more if you can...

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                                #30
                                Count your blessings, wait til they decide to step up their game to add torx-plus and mortork. Yes....they are real configs, only to be seen in aviation so far.

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