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    #16
    The baseboard probably cost $1000+ to run cause its not insulated. Fully insulate and that option in the long run may be cheaper.

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      #17
      Originally posted by Exonautic View Post
      The baseboard probably cost $1000+ to run cause its not insulated. Fully insulate and that option in the long run may be cheaper.
      So what would be easiest way to get it all insulated? walls and ceiling are all paneled, moldings, etc. Can a cointractor like delfino get in there without destroying the place at a reasonable price? Or do I need to pull everything apart, insulate, and put it back together? BTW I should add, there is no insulation in the floors either, which is essentially like a deck without any spacing between the boards.

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        #18
        Originally posted by BillyBonds View Post

        So what would be easiest way to get it all insulated? walls and ceiling are all paneled, moldings, etc. Can a cointractor like delfino get in there without destroying the place at a reasonable price? Or do I need to pull everything apart, insulate, and put it back together? BTW I should add, there is no insulation in the floors either, which is essentially like a deck without any spacing between the boards.
        They will not remove paneling or moldings , ceilings that is on you. They insulate , staple , foam and are out.

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          #19
          Originally posted by BillyBonds View Post

          So what would be easiest way to get it all insulated? walls and ceiling are all paneled, moldings, etc. Can a cointractor like delfino get in there without destroying the place at a reasonable price? Or do I need to pull everything apart, insulate, and put it back together? BTW I should add, there is no insulation in the floors either, which is essentially like a deck without any spacing between the boards.
          Foam the floor. You need to get them access to floor so a man can get in there with foam gun.

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            #20
            Originally posted by NorthForkSportsman View Post

            Mini split you can do down to 0 Degrees on some models correct?
            Mine goes down to -15 degrees and is 22EER
            "Except the Lord build they labor in vain that build it." I firmly believe this; and I also believe that without his concurring aid we shall succeed in this political building no better than the Builders of Babel: We shall be divided by our little partial local interests; our projects will be confounded, and we ourselves shall God governs in the affairs of men. I have lived, Sir, a long time..."
            Ben Franklin, arguably our least faith driven founding father

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              #21
              Originally posted by Hannco View Post

              Mine goes down to -15 degrees and is 22EER
              Brand ? Single or dual head? Approx cost ? So OP can budget accordingly .

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                #22
                Originally posted by NorthForkSportsman View Post

                Brand ? Single or dual head? Approx cost ? So OP can budget accordingly .
                There are many choices with Mitsubishi, here is mine:

                https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01LXI0Y...5&ref=aa_scomp
                "Except the Lord build they labor in vain that build it." I firmly believe this; and I also believe that without his concurring aid we shall succeed in this political building no better than the Builders of Babel: We shall be divided by our little partial local interests; our projects will be confounded, and we ourselves shall God governs in the affairs of men. I have lived, Sir, a long time..."
                Ben Franklin, arguably our least faith driven founding father

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                  #23
                  Originally posted by BillyBonds View Post

                  So what would be easiest way to get it all insulated? walls and ceiling are all paneled, moldings, etc. Can a cointractor like delfino get in there without destroying the place at a reasonable price? Or do I need to pull everything apart, insulate, and put it back together? BTW I should add, there is no insulation in the floors either, which is essentially like a deck without any spacing between the boards.
                  One option is to drill holes in each stud cavity and blow in insulation into the spaces. There are ups and downs to every method, but blowing in can avoid a lot of damage.

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                    #24
                    Originally posted by rlitman View Post

                    One option is to drill holes in each stud cavity and blow in insulation into the spaces. There are ups and downs to every method, but blowing in can avoid a lot of damage.
                    how big are the holes required? If it could be hidden by trim, I wouldnt mind this option

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                      #25
                      2 inch holes are the norm as i recall to able to get all way in cavity.

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                        #26
                        Originally posted by raceradam View Post

                        We installed a lift there a few months. It was for a clandestine division that does some sneaky stuff.
                        TARU

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                          #27
                          Originally posted by NorthForkSportsman View Post
                          2 inch holes are the norm as i recall to able to get all way in cavity.
                          My house was insulated with blown in cellulose before I bought it, so I can't say I saw that specific process being done. I have a stucco exterior, and if you look very closely, you can see where it was patched in a pattern, but if you're not looking for it, you won't notice it. I want to say the holes are 3", but different processes may have slightly different hole sizes.

                          The normal procedure is to use a hole saw to drill the holes in the exterior, and then hammer in tapered wooden plugs to fill in the hole, ending with whatever is needed to complete the finished surface. Stucco makes the job easy. Shingles, not so much. Alternatively, you could drill the drywall and patch the inside. Patching a hole-saw cut hole in drywall is stupid easy if you know the trick to do it without taping (use the hole saw to cut the filler plug from another piece of sheetrock, cutting through the paper on the back, but stopping just short of cutting through the paper on the front, so you make a plug/patch that has the "tape" already there), but insulation blowing makes a godawful mess, so don't go that route unless you're prepared for the full cleanup.

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                            #28
                            Will delfino cut and plug the holes for blown in?

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                              #29
                              Originally posted by BillyBonds View Post
                              Will delfino cut and plug the holes for blown in?
                              Call them with your site conditions for estimates. I dont recall ever having them repair paneling highly unlikely.

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                                #30
                                Just hang a 8x11 picture of a horse over each one?

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