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    #16
    If VG-10 is easy to sharpen, I'm doing something wrong or the stones that come with the Spyderco Sharpmaker suck balls. My EDC is VG-10, and I made the mistake of letting it get a little too dull once, now it's nearly impossible to get truly sharp again without dedicating hours to sharpening it back up. I've actually been meaning to order courser stones for the Sharpmaker for a while to help out.

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      #17
      No mention of good old 1095 carbon steel either.
      I am not an expert I only dabble but the list does seem to put the steels in someones preferred order. Not necessarily the only order for all applications. Example being S30v is a nice steel but I personally think D2 would make a better beater/survival knife than the more expensive s30v which makes a fine pocket knife. And 440c is very underrated for a stainless blade according to a few chief friend of mine who also happens to love 01 tool steel which is another carbon steel not mentioned.
      I treated myself to a benchmade a few years ago with s30v steel and I personally don’t see the big deal. I’d take a 1095 kbar edge over it any day.
      Vg10 was also mentioned above e and that material is by far the most durable I’ve used on a knife (kitchen) I do not know how well it would hold up off a cutting board though.

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        #18
        Originally posted by BillyBonds View Post
        If VG-10 is easy to sharpen, I'm doing something wrong or the stones that come with the Spyderco Sharpmaker suck balls. My EDC is VG-10, and I made the mistake of letting it get a little too dull once, now it's nearly impossible to get truly sharp again without dedicating hours to sharpening it back up. I've actually been meaning to order courser stones for the Sharpmaker for a while to help out.
        It's easier than S30V, and can still be sharpened on conventional stones. I usually just steel mine, and touch it up on a ceramic stick though. We just started tomato season, so it's time to get my kitchen knives back to tip top shape...

        Originally posted by METALHEAD View Post
        No mention of good old 1095 carbon steel either.
        I am not an expert I only dabble but the list does seem to put the steels in someones preferred order. Not necessarily the only order for all applications. Example being S30v is a nice steel but I personally think D2 would make a better beater/survival knife than the more expensive s30v which makes a fine pocket knife. And 440c is very underrated for a stainless blade according to a few chief friend of mine who also happens to love 01 tool steel which is another carbon steel not mentioned.
        I treated myself to a benchmade a few years ago with s30v steel and I personally don’t see the big deal. I’d take a 1095 kbar edge over it any day.
        Vg10 was also mentioned above e and that material is by far the most durable I’ve used on a knife (kitchen) I do not know how well it would hold up off a cutting board though.
        There are many good options, but I'm limiting my knives to steels that don't rust. Cutting boards shouldn't be hurting your knives. If so, you're using the wrong sort of board.

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          #19
          Originally posted by BillyBonds View Post
          If VG-10 is easy to sharpen, I'm doing something wrong or the stones that come with the Spyderco Sharpmaker suck balls. My EDC is VG-10, and I made the mistake of letting it get a little too dull once, now it's nearly impossible to get truly sharp again without dedicating hours to sharpening it back up. I've actually been meaning to order courser stones for the Sharpmaker for a while to help out.
          I have tried the diamond rods for the sharpmaker and they are ok...for really dull knives I tape fine grit sand paper to the ceramic stones to speed up the process on dull knives
          The natural liberty of man is to be free from any superior power on earth, and not to be under the will or legislative authority of man, but only to have the law of nature for his rule ...Samuel Adams, "The Rights of the Colonists" page 419

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            #20
            Originally posted by BillyBonds View Post
            If VG-10 is easy to sharpen, I'm doing something wrong or the stones that come with the Spyderco Sharpmaker suck balls. My EDC is VG-10, and I made the mistake of letting it get a little too dull once, now it's nearly impossible to get truly sharp again without dedicating hours to sharpening it back up. I've actually been meaning to order courser stones for the Sharpmaker for a while to help out.

            The stones from the Sharpmaker get loaded up with metal from the blades after a while. This has a significant impact on the ability of the stones to cut. I use Barkeepers Friend to clean the stones. Let them fully dry. You will see a big improvement in their ability to sharpen.

            I can get VG10 sharp enough to shave hair directly off of the Sharpmaker. If you want scary sharp, finish up with a leather strop and some green compound.

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              #21
              Originally posted by bberetta1 View Post


              The stones from the Sharpmaker get loaded up with metal from the blades after a while. This has a significant impact on the ability of the stones to cut. I use Barkeepers Friend to clean the stones. Let them fully dry. You will see a big improvement in their ability to sharpen.

              I can get VG10 sharp enough to shave hair directly off of the Sharpmaker. If you want scary sharp, finish up with a leather strop and some green compound.
              Liquid or powder for the Barkeepers Friend?

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                #22
                I use cascade powder
                The natural liberty of man is to be free from any superior power on earth, and not to be under the will or legislative authority of man, but only to have the law of nature for his rule ...Samuel Adams, "The Rights of the Colonists" page 419

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                  #23
                  Originally posted by BillyBonds View Post

                  Liquid or powder for the Barkeepers Friend?
                  Either one will work. I’ve used both. With the liquid I use a sponge with a scrubby (rough) side. Regular sponge with the powder. Powder may be a bit better.

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                    #24
                    Originally posted by Ancap View Post

                    I have tried the diamond rods for the sharpmaker and they are ok...for really dull knives I tape fine grit sand paper to the ceramic stones to speed up the process on dull knives
                    I have a glass plate glued to a block of wood. When I kill a belt on my big belt sander, I'll cut the loop open and use it for hand sharpening. The wood block gets clamped to my bench between dogs, and the sanding belt gets tensioned above the glass. That's my best

                    Originally posted by bberetta1 View Post


                    The stones from the Sharpmaker get loaded up with metal from the blades after a while. This has a significant impact on the ability of the stones to cut. I use Barkeepers Friend to clean the stones. Let them fully dry. You will see a big improvement in their ability to sharpen.

                    I can get VG10 sharp enough to shave hair directly off of the Sharpmaker. If you want scary sharp, finish up with a leather strop and some green compound.
                    The best way to unclog diamond stones is to rub it on a piece of broken glass. Pumice or abrasive cleaners containing pumice work well too. BKF is not all that abrasive, so I'd expect it to be a very slow way to open up the diamonds. BKF is my favorite stainless cleaner.

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                      #25
                      Originally posted by rlitman View Post

                      I have a glass plate glued to a block of wood. When I kill a belt on my big belt sander, I'll cut the loop open and use it for hand sharpening. The wood block gets clamped to my bench between dogs, and the sanding belt gets tensioned above the glass. That's my best



                      The best way to unclog diamond stones is to rub it on a piece of broken glass. Pumice or abrasive cleaners containing pumice work well too. BKF is not all that abrasive, so I'd expect it to be a very slow way to open up the diamonds. BKF is my favorite stainless cleaner.
                      The Sypderco Sharpmaker does not use diamond stones.

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                        #26
                        Originally posted by bberetta1 View Post

                        The Sypderco Sharpmaker does not use diamond stones.
                        its optional

                        https://www.spyderco.com/catalog/details.php?product=79

                        The natural liberty of man is to be free from any superior power on earth, and not to be under the will or legislative authority of man, but only to have the law of nature for his rule ...Samuel Adams, "The Rights of the Colonists" page 419

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                          #27
                          Originally posted by bberetta1 View Post

                          The Sypderco Sharpmaker does not use diamond stones.
                          I have one of their fine white ceramic triangle stones, but not the whole setup. It is fantastic for serrated blades. They're not diamond, though there are diamond stones for that setup.

                          Anyway, for ceramic, I've found that the same pumice based abrasive cleaners are best. Scotchbrite and some Comet will take out the buildup quickly. If you have a ceramic cooktop and have cleaner for that, that should also be good. I can't say I've tried using glass, but I think it should work too. Glass is softer than ceramic.


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                            #28
                            Originally posted by Ancap View Post
                            Yes, I’m aware. I was referring to the stones that come with the Sharpmaker.

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